Dining Around Portland and Seattle
Where should we eat? What’s new? What’s on your list? Where are your favorite spots?
Friends in town, friends coming to town, and out-of-towners I barely know all query me. It’s fun to offer up suggestions to “new” friends finding me through my website and guessing that – being so involved in food and living in Portland – I might have some good suggestions and opinions. I do.
As a cookbook author, it’s challenging to maintain a balance between eating in and dining out. Most weeks, I’m writing and developing recipes. That means I am generating a lot food, and that food needs to be consumed. My husband’s colleagues think he has the best wife possible! She cooks new things all the time, and dinner is at hand at the end of a long day. (Of course, sometimes, so is a sink full of dishes – thank you, darling!) Why I bring this up is because I also like (and need) to eat out and try different cuisines, check out new chefs, and get away from the kitchen. But often, the refrigerator is full and it makes sense to eat at home. So we seek balance.
For me, dining around Portland means visiting my favorite haunts and patronizing my favorite businesses—Paley’s, Beaker&Flask, Biwa, Jade, Nostrana, Toro Bravo, Castagna, and Carafe, to name a few. And then, there are those I keep on my mental gotta-get-back-to list, such as, Metrovino, Clyde Common, Bamboo Sushi, Country Cat, Andina, Beast, Park Kitchen, Apizza Scholls, Nuestra Cucina, Pok Pok, Ken’s Artisan Pizza, DOC, Simpatica, Olympic Provisions, and Gruner. And then there are those I still need to try but the lines are so long I have to strategically plan it. I’m thinking of Tasty & Sons, Foster Burger, and Lucky Strike’s new location on Hawthorne. Plan-in-advance, reservations-only places take more mental capacity than I am sometimes capable of. (I do this for vacations, but I am lazier about restaurants in my own city.)
But when a dining opportunity presents itself, I’m all over it. We had planned a day trip to Seattle on Saturday, scouting for a Japanese tansu (chest) from a favorite Asian antique dealer. I realized we could have an early dinner in Seattle and still drive back in mostly daylight. Where to go? I decided to try Cascina Spinasse. The young chef, Jason Stratton, had just been named a Food&Wine Best New Chef for 2010. I made a 5:15 pm reservation to allow for our drive back.
Without a doubt, the restaurant is a knockout. We shared a respectable antipasti—Insalata di cicoria di campo—local chicories with marinated rabbit, parmigiano-reggiano and balsamico. Greg was studying the wine list, which is completely Piedmont focused, and settled on a 2004 Barbera “Conca” from Poderi Aldo Conterno. We ordered the night’s special pasta, described as a rough-cut egg pasta with a pork ragù. We shared the antipasti and pasta course and ordered two entrees.
I tried to share equally with the pasta course but, well, let’s just say I couldn’t resist. My fork went back for a tad more of the pasta, and then the sauce, and then the final morsel of the pork. Jason, the chef, had me at primi and then came secondi. Pulcino alla acresta (braised young chicken with verjus, herbs, gooseberries and house-cured guanciale) was brilliant with sweet young chickens in a light rounded sauce, punctuated with tart pinkish gooseberries and sage. Thank goodness the entrees were placed in the center with serving utensils because equally amazing was Polpetti di coniglio (rabbit meatballs wrapped in caul fat, with roasted baby turnips and pickled horseradish condiment). There were three meatballs and being full had nothing to do with the desire to consume a half of that third meatball—every last savory bite.
For dessert, (yes, after that star lineup of courses, we had to try a dessert.) we shared Torta di mandorle (toasted almond cake with grappa macerated tayberries and strawberry sorbetto). Northwest berries delivered Italian-style as an amazing summertime dessert. The tartness of the berries offset the deeply caramelized edges of the almond cake. Just needing a bite of something sweet to finish the meal, the portion size was perfect for two. And a nice grappa to finish.

I’m not a food blogger in the sense of taking pictures of every meal I consume, but I realized I needed pictures. I knew I wanted to share this meal with you. So, these are photos from Greg’s phone. If I knew this meal was going to be so memorable, I would have brought my digital camera. Next time…
Just in case you are heading to Seattle
Cascina Spinasse
1531 14th Avenue
Seattle, WA 98122
206.251.7673
SPINASSE.COM
Diane
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