Salmon carpaccio with celery root slaw

I like to pair salmon and celery root because they complement each other in texture and taste. In this dish, silky, wafer-thin slices of lightly cured salmon contrast beautifully with the matchstick-cut crunch of the raw root. The slaw is tossed in a mustardy mayonnaise-based dressing and accented with chives and parsley. Minced cornichons and capers are added to punch up the tang of the dressing and deliver textural interest. If you have time, make the slaw a day in advance of serving to allow all the flavors to meld.

YIELD

Serves 6 as a first course

INGREDIENTS:

Celery Root Slaw

1/4 cup [60 ml] mayonnaise

1/4 cup [60 ml] sour cream

1 1/2 tsp whole-grain mustard

2 tsp fresh lemon juice

1 1/2 tsp cider vinegar

1 Tbsp minced cornichons

1 Tbsp drained brined capers, rinsed, patted dry, and minced

Fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

One 1-lb [455-g] celery root

2 Tbsp finely snipped fresh chives

1 Tbsp minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Carpaccio

One 1-lb [455-g] center-cut salmon fillet, skin and pin bones removed

6 Tbsp [90 ml] lemon-infused extra-virgin olive oil

Flake sea salt, such as Maldon

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the slaw:

In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, lemon juice, vinegar, cornichons, and capers. Season with fine sea salt and pepper. Set aside.

Using a sharp knife, cut off the base and a thin slice from the top of the celery root and then cut the root in half lengthwise. Pare away the tough outer skin from one of the halves. Using a chef’s knife, mandoline, or the julienne blade of a food processor, cut the peeled half into matchsticks. Immediately add the matchsticks to the bowl holding the dressing and toss to coat them thoroughly to prevent browning. Repeat with the second half of the celery root. Add the chives and parsley and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. (This would be a good time to chill six salad plates for serving. The slaw can be prepared up to 1 day in advance and stored in a covered container in the refrigerator.)

To prepare the carpaccio:

Using a very sharp, thin-bladed knife, slice the fish crosswise (against the grain) into 18 wafer-thin slices. Lay the slices side by side on a large baking sheet. Brush both sides of each salmon slice with the lemon oil. Season the top side of each slice with flake sea salt. Set aside for 20 minutes.

Divide the salmon evenly among chilled salad plates, overlapping the slices slightly. Spoon a generous serving of the slaw next to the salmon and serve immediately.

COOKS NOTES

One convenient do-ahead step is to slice the salmon an hour in advance. Seal the cut salmon tightly by pressing a large sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the flesh, smoothing the plastic wrap to press out any air pockets, and then refrigerate the salmon. Twenty minutes before serving, remove the salmon from the refrigerator and proceed as directed.

Celery root purée with anjou pear

When summer fades and the markets fill with fall fruits and roots, make this savory-sweet purée of pears and celery root, a perfect accompaniment to roast pork tenderloin or to pork of any kind.

YIELD

Serves 8 as a side dish

INGREDIENTS:

1 large celery root, 11/2 lb/680 g, trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

11/2 tsp kosher or fine sea salt

4 Anjou pears, about 2 lb/910 g

1/4 cup/55 g unsalted butter

1/2 cup/60 ml dry vermouth

1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 cup/120 ml heavy whipping cream, warmed

Freshly ground white pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

Fill a 6-qt/5.7 L saucepan two-thirds full of water. Add the celery root and 1 tsp of the salt, cover partially, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat so the water simmers and cook until the celery root is tender when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes. Drain the celery root in a colander and return it to the pan. Place the pan over low heat for 1 minute to evaporate any excess moisture.

Meanwhile, using a vegetable peeler, peel, halve, and core the pears and cut them into 1-in/2.5-cm chunks. In a large frying pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the pears and the remaining 1/2 tsp of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pears are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the vermouth and nutmeg and continue cooking until the pears are very soft and the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat.

In a food processor, combine half the celery root, half the pears, and half the cream and process until completely smooth. Transfer the purée to a warmed serving bowl. Repeat with the remaining celery root, pears, and cream and add to the bowl.

Season the purée with salt and white pepper. Serve immediately, or keep warm in the top of a double boiler or cover and rewarm in a microwave oven.