Pizza on the Grill
Grilled pizza is exciting to make. It takes some finesse, a little daring, definite organization of ingredients, and some critical tools. That said, it’s worth practicing and mastering the techniques, because grilled pizza is uniquely delicious, with a crack and snap to the crust and a smoky flavor beyond compare.
Many think grilled pizza originated in California—with all the sunny weather, warm days, and designer pizzas on restaurant menus, pizza from the grill seems a natural. However, the restaurant generally credited with inventing grilled pizza is Al Forno in Providence, Rhode Island, owned by George Germon and Johanne Killeen. They started making grilled pizza in the early 1980s. I have eaten there on several occasions, and even took a class from George when he taught pizza on the grill to a group of food professionals during a conference in Providence.
The difference between grilled pizza and baking a pizza in the oven is that the dough for a grilled pizza is baked on one side before any toppings are added, whereas a pizza baked in the oven has all the toppings added before it is slid into the oven. This is why the organization of ingredients is important. Once the pizza dough is cooked on one side, the crust is flipped so the baked side with the grill marks is facing up. The toppings are added to this side, and then the pizza is slid back onto the grill to cook the underside of the crust and bake the toppings. Having the prepared ingredients ready right next to the grill is one of the keys to success.
I mentioned daring and finesse—I should also mention fun. If you have practiced sliding a pizza from a pizza peel onto a baking stone, then sliding a pizza onto a hot, well-oiled grill surface is similar. The difference is you have a hot live fire to deal with, and you want the dough to land in the right place. For your first time, try making smaller, individual pizzas by cutting the dough in half and rolling out two crusts. This way you’ll be sliding a smaller piece of dough onto the grill. Another trick is to make an extra batch of dough so you have a backup supply just in case the dough folds over on itself while you’re trying to slide it on the grill. Any extra dough can be frozen for later use.
There are a few special tools useful for making pizza on the grill, though I have seen many successful improvisations. Long tongs for moving the coals and sliding the pizza are very helpful, as are long oven mitts. For me, the one absolutely critical piece of equipment for pizza grilling is a pizza peel, for sliding the dough onto the grill grate and then transferring the finished pizza to a cutting board. A wooden pizza peel is charming, but for grilling pizzas, I’ve found a metal peel practical, as it won’t burn if it touches the grill grate.
Don’t wait to make pizza on the grill—it’s too much fun—but you might consider trying a few practice pizzas to get the hang of it before you invite friends to a grilled pizza party.
Diane
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